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    Certain clichés, some more tenacious than others, define generations of Indian restaurants in the United States. It’s a font, the type stylized with curly, pointy-ended serifs. It’s a basket of cold, black-edged papad dressed up as bread service. Usually, though, it’s a menu of naan and curry, pleasing in its soft, warm vagueness. And so when the chef Preeti Mistry opened her first restaurant, she wanted to avoid as many of those clichés as possible. “I wanted to do something that was the opposite of all of that,” Mistry said. At first, she railed against naan and curry. It pained her that India’s vast cuisine was still, so often, reduced to that pairing. “I wanted to bring something that was more out there, that didn’t really exist yet,” she said.

    What Mistry brought was Juhu Beach Club, a small restaurant in Oakland that opened in 2013, where she cooked with ingredients from the farmers’ market. In “The Juhu Beach Club Cookbook,” which Mistry wrote with Sarah Henry last fall, she tells the story of how she grew up tasting Indian street food on the beaches of Mumbai, longing to eat more than her mother’s home-cooked meals and sneaking cans of Coke at friends’ houses. By the time she was working in the basement kitchen of Claridge’s in London, Mistry knew that cooking would be her path.

    She started with a pop-up inside a liquor store in San Francisco, where she moved in the ’90s, crushing cloves and cardamom in a coffee grinder and bringing her spice pastes from home. Eventually, she opened Juhu Beach Club, and though it closed in January, it was authentic to Mistry’s complex point of view as a first-generation Indian-American — one born in London to Asian parents from East Africa, raised in the American Midwest, cheffing in Northern California.

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  • “A lot of old-school Indian restaurants won’t use black salt because they think it’s going to be too weird,” said Mistry, referring to the dark rock salt crystals, pungent with sulfur, often used to season and bring depth to chaats and other food. “I love it, it’s awesome. It has this flavor and funk that’s really distinctive. And I’m not pandering to anyone.” Mistry put black salt in tangy, crunchy salads when she felt it belonged in them and cooked the way she liked. She bought locally grown fenugreek leaves for methi chicken, and built chaat with fresh green chickpeas. She fried the thin, crisp, delicate chickpea noodles to make sev in house, and served them with persimmons when they were in season. “I thought about the building blocks of sev puri,” Mistry said. “I thought about the elements like any chef would think about a classic dish.”

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    There were waffles on the weekends. Mistry cooked them from the same kind of fermented batter typically used to make dosa. And each summer, there was the conundrum of the tomato salad. Every California restaurant has a summery tomato salad of some kind, Mistry explained. A riff of some sort on a caprese — tomatoes, mozzarella, herbs. Mistry wanted one, too, and she experimented with many versions. There was the one with soft, creamy paneer made from fresh milk, standing in for mozzarella. But Mistry said it had too many bells and whistles. Then a few years ago, she came up with a tomato salad that drew from the flavors of a kachumber — a raw, roughly chopped salad sometimes seasoned with only cumin seeds and lemon juice. It’s this one, which I made in my Brooklyn kitchen again and again throughout August and September, that showed me very clearly what I’d miss after Juhu Beach Club closed.

    To put it together, Mistry made something resembling a green-goddess dressing — herbs blitzed with a little yogurt, vinegar and oil. Then she seasoned plain fatty yogurt with toasted, crushed cumin seeds and salt and smeared it all over a plate. She piled a mix of dressed heirloom tomatoes on top, the big ones cut into wedges, the little ones halved. And that was it. “I wanted to make it simple,” Mistry said. “I wanted to make, in the moment, just whatever felt right.”

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  • 24시간대기화성콜걸강추⇪충청남도출장샵후기▒{의정부출장외국인{카톡: Po 3 4}《Poo3 4.c0M》안마출장코스가격Y⇘↸2019-02-19-12-28의정부┉AIJ┛외국인출장만남출장만족보장출장샵강추↲출장최고시⇆출장미인아가씨⇢의정부}남양주출장코스가격▀청주출장소이스홍성◐공주출장샵안내└영주출장미인아가씨

    It wasn’t a kachumber, not by any definition. Neither could it pass as a caprese, not that it even wanted to. It wasn’t a mash-up of the two, either. It was better — it was something that didn’t really exist yet — delicious, habit-forming and a wonderful thing to do with the last sweet, fat tomatoes of the year.

    출장업소서울출장소이스▥순천오피걸╔{의정부출장업소(카톡: Po 3 4)『Poo3 4.c0M』출장안마추천출장샵Y♦➼2019-02-19-12-28의정부⇣AIJ╀콜걸샵출장샵예약포항콜걸추천┌출장업소➸출장소이스홍성↕의정부}청주출장코스가격¤충청남도콜걸샵⇘포항콜걸후기┲남양주출장안마군산출장가격➥대전출장만족보장£{의정부오피[카톡: Po 3 4][Poo3 4.c0M]출장연애인급출장외국인Y☳┮2019-02-19-12-28의정부▥AIJ♐출장샵예약포항출장만족보장출장연애인급☆출장맛사지♮출장안마추천☢의정부}광주출장샵강추⇊원주출장가격♥오산콜걸출장안마ⓥ평택역출장안마의정부출장코스가격천안콜걸강추╤서산출장업계위♫{의정부출장샵예약포항〖카톡: Po 3 4〗[Poo3 4.c0M]출장샵콜걸콜걸샵Y☻♚2019-02-19-12-28의정부⇀AIJ╬출장코스가격콜걸후기콜걸강추✍콜걸후기▲출장업계위♔의정부}동두천콜걸추천★김제출장최강미녀┻천안출장시▶순천콜걸출장마사지애인대행김제출장오피┧구미출장서비스☺{의정부출장만남〖카톡: Po 3 4〗〖Poo3 4.c0M〗출장업소출장샵예약Y➸✐2019-02-19-12-28의정부✪AIJ⇦출장서비스보장콜걸출장마사지출장몸매최고⇃모텔출장╰출장샵예약포항⇁의정부}안동콜걸만남❈양주출장맛사지☁평택안마┯양산콜걸업소

  • 수원출장샵
  • 의정부출장안마추천〖카톡: Po 3 4〗『Poo3 4.c0M』외국인출장만남출장샵강추Y↠♧2019-02-19-12-28의정부✯AIJ♝오피출장샵출장아가씨➹콜걸출장안마╛출장코스가격♬의정부
  • 의정부출장맛사지
  • 구리흥출장안마♪ 김제출장샵안내╥{의정부동출장마사지【카톡: Po 3 4】(Poo3 4.c0M)릉콜걸샵출장소이스Y☻┌2019-02-19-12-28의정부┿AIJ┗출장시출장샵강추출장가격⇛안마❤출장가격♨의정부}문경출장미인아가씨▨계룡출장몸매최고⇜시흥모텔출장◑경상북도출장몸매최고

  • 의정부콜걸업소《카톡: Po 3 4》〖Poo3 4.c0M〗콜걸후기출장연애인급Y▪↧2019-02-19-12-28의정부⇛AIJ✌출장안마출장샵예약포항출장미인아가씨⚘모텔출장┤역출장안마⊙의정부
  • 양산출장업소
  • 창원오피걸★거제출장샵예약╩{의정부출장샵예약포항(카톡: Po 3 4)《Poo3 4.c0M》출장몸매최고출장안마야한곳Y➧┆2019-02-19-12-28의정부✯AIJ☝콜걸출장마사지출장샵예약포항출장서비스⚘출장서비스⇌출장샵추천♬의정부}군산출장샵예약✉군산흥출장안마♨의왕출장코스가격★경상남도출장몸매최고의정부출장안마의정부출장샵강추〖카톡: Po 3 4〗『Poo3 4.c0M』콜걸업소출장샵추천Y✌⇜2019-02-19-12-28의정부╦AIJ↕출장오쓰피걸모텔출장출장업계위♡출장안마야한곳╘출장오피┟의정부

    A version of this article appears in print on , on Page 30 of the Sunday Magazine with the headline: The Last Great Tomato Salad of the Year
  • 시흥출장마사지
  • 의정부외국인출장만남【카톡: Po 3 4】『Poo3 4.c0M』출장샵강추콜걸만남Y⇣⇆2019-02-19-12-28의정부╅AIJ⇘출장색시미녀언니콜걸출장안마출장샵예약포항☢출장샵예약포항▤출장코스가격☺의정부

  • 김해콜걸추천的남원오피걸☱{의정부출장미인아가씨〖카톡: Po 3 4〗〖Poo3 4.c0M〗출장오쓰피걸출장맛사지Y┰┥2019-02-19-12-28의정부┳AIJ▨콜걸출장마사지출장연애인급출장샵후기✁출장서비스보장→콜걸만남◢의정부}경상북도출장시╯익산콜걸╬사천출장업계위└광명안마
    청주출장코스가격↔아산미시출장안마▶{의정부출장시(카톡: Po 3 4)『Poo3 4.c0M』출장아가씨콜걸후기Y┽╋2019-02-19-12-28의정부⇔AIJ▄출장소이스출장서비스보장출장최강미녀↕오피◈출장미인아가씨★의정부}구리콜걸샵☁동해출장마사지✂제천콜걸샵⇀익산출장샵후기
  • 의정부출장최강미녀
  • 의정부출장소이스
  • 양주콜걸출장안마❖서산출장샵예약포항◎{의정부출장미인아가씨《카톡: Po 3 4》《Poo3 4.c0M》흥출장안마콜걸업소Y┨↓2019-02-19-12-28의정부«AIJ➺출장안마출장업소출장업소■출장미인아가씨┋출장샵예약⇂의정부}목포출장소이스홍성◎정읍흥출장안마▽상주미시출장안마⇪포천출장샵안내

  • 의정부릉콜걸샵
  • 출장콜걸
  • 애인대행
  • 익산출장맛사지⇚안산릉콜걸샵┣{의정부콜걸강추[카톡: Po 3 4][Poo3 4.c0M]콜걸후기출장소이스홍성Y✄♧2019-02-19-12-28의정부↲AIJ♭출장소이스홍성출장최강미녀역출장안마☜출장샵후기⇐출장아가씨▨의정부}경상북도출장소이스홍성▀영주출장미인아가씨♣논산출장최강미녀U공주출장외국인출장아가씨
  • 의정부출장업소[카톡: Po 3 4]《Poo3 4.c0M》콜걸강추출장외국인Y⇚♗2019-02-19-12-28의정부☣AIJ✪출장샵예약포항콜걸출장소이스▨출장최고시❉릉콜걸샵☳의정부
  • 의정부출장서비스전라남도미시출장안마♩경상북도출장샵후기☈{의정부출장소이스홍성《카톡: Po 3 4》(Poo3 4.c0M)출장업계위릉콜걸샵Y♛↓2019-02-19-12-28의정부☪AIJ↸출장마사지콜걸출장마사지외국인출장만남←출장업소→출장여대생✂의정부}인천모텔출장☱전주안마↔목포출장최고시★남원콜걸출장마사지의정부오피
  • 의정부흥출장안마
  • 의정부콜걸만남《카톡: Po 3 4》(Poo3 4.c0M)출장샵콜걸출장가격Y╌➨2019-02-19-12-28의정부⇢AIJ♦출장외국인콜걸만남콜걸샵↡오피⇩콜걸만남•의정부
  • 출장샵
  • 보령콜걸강추♡고양출장미인아가씨♤{의정부출장안마추천{카톡: Po 3 4}〖Poo3 4.c0M〗출장서비스보장출장여대생Y✓⇡2019-02-19-12-28의정부╡AIJ♢콜걸출장아가씨출장업소●출장몸매최고❦콜걸출장마사지»의정부}상주출장색시미녀언니┲서산동출장마사지╚광양출장오쓰피걸♐광명출장안마야한곳
  • 의정부출장샵(카톡: Po 3 4)《Poo3 4.c0M》출장코스가격콜걸출장안마Y┄╀2019-02-19-12-28의정부╢AIJ﹄콜걸만남출장만남콜걸강추→콜걸후기↸출장미인아가씨☄의정부
  • 의정부출장미인아가씨《카톡: Po 3 4》[Poo3 4.c0M]출장샵콜걸출장연애인급Y☣♭2019-02-19-12-28의정부✿AIJ╓출장오쓰피걸출장몸매최고출장서비스보장╔출장서비스♠출장샵예약포항✆의정부
  • 출장업소
  • 의정부출장미인아가씨
  • 애인대행의정부출장샵안내《카톡: Po 3 4》【Poo3 4.c0M】동출장마사지출장맛사지Y┞⇞2019-02-19-12-28의정부⇀AIJ☁출장외국인오피출장서비스보장↹출장샵⇛출장샵추천♭의정부
  • 의정부콜걸출장마사지【카톡: Po 3 4】{Poo3 4.c0M}출장안마야한곳출장오쓰피걸Y╨⇈2019-02-19-12-28의정부╥AIJ✐콜걸출장마사지출장샵예약출장오피▦출장서비스✔출장가격↸의정부
  • 시흥출장마사지
  • 의정부출장안마{카톡: Po 3 4}[Poo3 4.c0M]출장여대생출장연애인급Y♤☐2019-02-19-12-28의정부◥AIJ☏출장샵추천동출장마사지릉콜걸샵☪출장시◈흥출장안마═의정부의정부오피걸출장오피걸의정부출장마사지《카톡: Po 3 4》[Poo3 4.c0M]출장서비스보장출장아가씨Y◄╬ 2019-02-19-12-28의정부❈AIJ♥콜걸샵출장안마오피♦출장샵콜걸╫출장업계위™의정부
  • 남양주외국인오피걸
  • 의정부출장맛사지[카톡: Po 3 4]『Poo3 4.c0M』출장연애인급콜걸후기Y☋╚2019-02-19-12-28의정부⇂AIJ┡출장코스가격출장샵추천콜걸강추✥콜걸☻출장연애인급♙의정부
  • 의정부출장안마야한곳
  • 의정부[keyword]{Poo3 4.c0M}〖카톡: Po 3 4〗┝의정부출장연애인급큐의정부콜걸출장마사지☆출장샵예약포항╬ 의정부흥출장안마⇪의정부출장서비스보장

    대구역출장안마⇩원주흥출장안마╙{의정부출장서비스{카톡: Po 3 4}[Poo3 4.c0M]릉콜걸샵출장샵안내Y☢♜2019-02-19-12-28의정부┃AIJ╡출장안마야한곳출장만남동출장마사지✣출장샵추천╫모텔출장❂의정부}창원출장샵콜걸▌보령출장오쓰피걸↲전라북도출장샵후기☆충청남도출장업계위강원도출장소이스홍성⇂영주출장최고시☺{의정부콜걸업소【카톡: Po 3 4】【Poo3 4.c0M】릉콜걸샵출장여대생Y┸┩2019-02-19-12-28의정부⇏AIJ♗콜걸후기출장업계위출장가격╓출장만남↼출장소이스홍성⇇의정부}논산출장안마야한곳♔구리출장색시미녀언니╂충청북도출장시♩전라남도출장샵강추의정부출장샵후기김해출장아가씨
  • 의정부출장코스가격{카톡: Po 3 4}[Poo3 4.c0M]역출장안마콜걸추천Y⇛↕2019-02-19-12-28의정부☃AIJ☢출장미인아가씨동출장마사지흥출장안마☐출장샵☭출장오쓰피걸☁의정부
  • 상주오피↕충청남도콜걸업소❦{의정부출장안마추천{카톡: Po 3 4}(Poo3 4.c0M)콜걸추천출장샵예약포항Y♡▪2019-02-19-12-28의정부↙AIJ╝출장시콜걸샵흥출장안마➸콜걸출장마사지┏출장최강미녀✂의정부}전라남도출장안마▫김포출장샵후기♖광명출장소이스┒천안출장시
  • 의정부동출장마사지
  • 출장아가씨
  • jnice01-ina11-an-wb-0175